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Suhail Ahmad Wani

Chipak raha hai badan par lahoo se Pairahan,

Hamari jaeb ko abb haajat-e-rafoo kya hai? Mirza Galib

The dress of Kashmiris has undergone several changes during the course of their long history. The Kashmiri word “Pheran” is contraction of the Persian word “pairahan” which literally means garment which clearly shows its origin to the time of Mughal rulers who had Persian descent. The Mughals are said to have encouraged the use of Pheran and of the Kangri, the portable firepot enclosed in a wicker case, to effeminate the hardy Kashmiris and to break their martial sprit. As far as the Kangari is concerned it is generally believed that Kashmiri’s learnt the use of the Kangari from the Italians who were in the retinue of the Mughal emperors, and usually visited the valley during summer. In Italy where a similar device was known as a Scaldino and Spain, braziers were made in a great variety of shapes and were profusely ornamented. Historical data however contradicts that the claim that Kangari came to Kashmir from Italy, but it is known that it was used in the time of the Mughal Empire.
But, according to some Kashmiri Pandit Scholars, its origin is to the Greek word “Apron” & even the Tajik word “Peraband. Kalhana even mentions that before the time of Harsa (1089-1101), the people of the land in general wore their hair loose, did not have a head dress and did not wear a short coat, but a long tunic. Perhaps due to the influence of the Muhammadinised areas in Kandhara and western parts of the Punjab, Harsa introduced the use of Turban and short coat. This seems to have been the dress of people at the time of the foundation of Sultanate. With the coming in of the Sufi saints and Muslim theologians from Persia and central Asia, Kashmiris adopted the long robe, and round turban. According to Kalhana the former is thus the forerunner of the Pheran, the present dress of Kashmiris.
There are several stories associated with Pheran in Kashmir. One narrative is that the Emperor Akbar was enraged at the bravery and prolonged resistance offered by the Chaks to his General Qasim Khan, who decided to effeminate, unman and degrade the people of this country, and so, he ordered the people, on the pain of death, to wear Pheran which has hindered them in battles and all manly exercises.
The object, according to this theory, was to make Kashmiris lethargic and indolent by keeping their hands always inside it on a warm Kangari, which killed their martial habiliments and warlike spirit against the Mughal rulers. Dr. GMD Sufi rejects this narrative by saying that if this story were true, then the Kashmiris would not have required Kangari at all. Sir Marc Aurel Stein dismisses it as a silly story. Pir Hassan Shah says that Pheran was introduced during the time of King Zain ul Abidin. Sir Walter Lawrence in his book ‘The Valley of Kashmir’, blames Akbar for inventing this garment. Lawrence was the Settlement Commissioner for Jammu and Kashmir during 1889-94. British missionary and educationalist Tyndale Biscoe in his book ‘Kashmir in Sunlight and Shade’ has the following to say about pheran: “When the Afghans conquered Kashmir they forced the men to wear the same dress as the women, to be in keeping with their character.” Kashmiri’s are not fond of Mughals or Afghans or those who came after them. But their love for the pheran has grown manifold.

Pheran is a long loose garment worn in Kashmir by both men & women. It has also been equaled and compared with /cloak/coat/apparel/gown/wrapper/tunic by different travelers, historians, explorers & anthropologists of Kashmir. Anyway, it is a heavy and full garment with buttons or zip around the neck-opening, without slits, falling slightly above the feet among non-Muslims and below the knees among the Muslims. Weight is given to the bottom of this garment by a deep hem. It is made of cotton or wool. When it is made of cotton, it is called Potsh and when it is made of wool, it is called Loch. And, Potsh which was , till few decades ago, used during summer is not now so common among the present Kashmiri’s owing to change in their dressing habits, just like that of other communities world-over; even though some old traditional Kashmiri’s still wear it in some villages and parts of cities and towns. Under the tunic of Pheran, the wearer uses Kangari, which is an earthen pot with a small quantity of live charcoal, to keep the wearer warm against the cold.
The Pheran is required against the inclemency of the weather in Kashmir, to fight against the chilly weathers of winter; though there are now many latest electronic and other items too available in Kashmir to warm bodies and rooms. In the past, the woolen cloth used for Pheran was either manufactured in Kashmir on home looms or imported from Punjab. Now, the wool, tweed, Puttu, of which the Pheran is invariably made, is all imported from outside Kashmir. In the past, a long piece of cotton stuff called lungi was worn around the waist over Pheran by the Panditanis/Kashmiri Hindu women who would never go out of home without this girdle.
But, now this old tradition of fastening belt around the waist over Pheran is not visible among the Panditanis in Kashmir; though many young Kashmiri Muslim boys like having this belt around waist on their Pherans. In olden times, writes Pandit Anand Koul, every Kashmiri male Hindu/Pandit would carry a Qalamdan (pen cases) in the girdle bound over his Pheran round his loin or under his armpit wherever he went. In the past, the colours of the Pherans used to be limited to red and blue only. But today, the progress of textile industry, has added all possible colours to the stuff used for making of Pherans. The women generally like bright colors, while men like light colors. Today’s Kashmiri young boys like black and dark colors, and round collars, buttons at the cuff and girdle at the waist of Pheran; all these innovations give the Pheran look of a gown or overcoat.
The Pheran and the Kangari reflect the historical continuity of Kashmiri culture as Pheran had not made any drastic change in the garment. If a person from 15th century suddenly wakes up in the streets of Srinagar today, he would definitely identify pheran and the Kangari as something that belongs to his era. That is why the recent decision of the government to ban the garment in the zonal educational offices and the civil secretariat created such an uproar. It was seen as a demeaning move. Although the government revoked the order quickly, it has not yet cooled down the tempers. However, whenever the history of Kashmir culture will be written, the role of pheran and the Kangari cannot be ignored.

The author is a Ph.D Research Scholar at the University of Indore. He can be reached at: [email protected]

SRINAGAR: A war of words between Srinagar’s Mayor and Deputy Mayor broke out on Thursday after the Mayor, Junaid Azim Mattu expressed his disapproval over Army’s involvement in cleaning the Dal Lake on Wednesday.

Meanwhile, Deputy Mayor Mohammed Imran has said that he would criticise the army if they committed any harm against the civilians, but if it is a good job such as assistance with the cleaning of Dal Lake, then he greatly appreciates the wonderful job.

On December 22, Imran had tweeted that the Srinagar Municipal Corporation, in collaboration with Army, Lakes and Water Ways Development Authority (LAWDA) and the local public of Dal was conducting a cleansing drive for 21 days, headed by him.

However, the Mayor Junaid Azim Mattu took to Twitter to point out that the Army was not needed in civic matters. He tweeted “SMC has not entered into any collaborative operation with the Army for any cleaning, de-weeding operations in Dal” on December 24.

Responding to a Twitter user, he further said “I don’t think the Army needs to venture into civil governance domains. Not the job of the Army.

The difference of opinion between these two major representatives of the Srinagar Municipal Corporation indicates a major rift between them. While Mattu is from the Sajad Lone-led People’s Conference, Imran is backed by Congress. (PTK)

SRINAGAR, DEC 27: In a shocking remarks, National Conference leader and former MLC Aga Syed Mehmood had said that, “If you don’t vote for National Conference, your prayers won’t be accepted”.

In a viral Video on social media Syed Mehmood heard saying that if you don’t vote for national conference your prayers won’t be accepted, added that “I request all the people to vote for NC at least once”.

He added, “Those who are with me will never boycott. They will vote for NC and they have to Vote for NC”.

“He is further heared in the video saying, “In last election they voted for me. Now they have to vote for Bedaar Sahab”. (PTK)

Court grants bail to Yasin Malik, his supporters

A court in Srinagar Wednesday granted bail to the Jammu and Kashmir Liberation Front chairman Muhammad Yasin Malik and his supporters in an attempt to murder case.

After hearing the prosecution and defence counsels, the court of additional district and sessions judge Srinagar Parvaiz Kachroo said the liberty of a person cannot be curtailed on the mere allegations leveled by the prosecution, “more so when the prosecution has failed to prove by cogent evidence that the accused are of such a character as would jump over the concession of bail, if granted (sic).”

According to the FIR filed in the case, the JKLF chief and seven other members of the Front including Mushtaq Ajmal, Muhammad Hanif Dar, Imtiyaz Ahmad Dar, Imtiyaz Ahmad Ganie, Shakir Ahmad Ahangar, Fayaz Ahmad and Basharat Ahmad, were booked for “attempt to murder, endangering life or personal safety of others, assault or criminal force to deter a public servant from discharging his duty, mischief, rioting, and assaulting or obstructing public servant when suppressing riot”.

The police said all of them were part of an attempted protest march towards Badami Bagh on 20 December this year.

Malik led a symbolic protest with scores of people, including women and youth, who wore shrouds with ‘army, kills us all’ written on them.

The protest march was called by the Joint Resistance Leadership comprising Malik, Syed Ali Geelani and Mirwaiz Umar Farooq, against killing of seven civilians by forces after a gun-battle in Pulwama.

“The bail application of the accused requires to be considered and the bail application is allowed. The accused are admitted to interim bail,” the court said, remarking that it doesn’t find any merit in the contention of the prosecution that offences allegedly committed by the accused are heinous and non-bailable and that the bail application should be rejected.

“If it is presumed that the accused have committed (these) offences, still they (accused) are entitled for grant of bail because these offences do not entail punishment of life or death. As such, the bar created under law for refusing the bail cannot be extended to the offences where the punishment is life or 10 years,” the court said, referring to various Supreme Court and High Court judgments and other provisions of law in support of its verdict.

Earlier, advocate Bashir Sidiq who represented Malik in the case, pleaded before the court that the prosecution story is “fake and concocted”.

“It is apparent on the face of the police report that no offence for attempt to murder is made out. Prosecution is making mere allegations. The prosecution has failed to prove as to how my clients (accused) are involved in the commission of offences.”

He further submitted that the police have received some articles which nowhere “connect his client with the commission of offence”.

Meanwhile, a JKLF spokesman said in a statement that its chairman, who was arrested along with other leaders of the party on 17 December 2018, “were bailed out by a magistrate on 18 December but the police, using its old tactics, re-arrested them under many frivolous charges, including the attempt to murder and presented them before a court which granted them seven-day police remand”.

“Today after the expiry of this remand, the case was heard by the additional sessions court Srinagar which ordered the release of Yasin Malik and others from police custody on an interim bail till January 17, 2019,” the statement read.

“During the past three months, Yasin Malik has spent most of his time in police custody. He was arrested on October 2 and released on October 18. He was again arrested on October 24 and released on October 28. Police again arrested him on November 19 and he was then released on December 12. After a few days of freedom, he was again arrested by the police on December 17 and kept at police station Kothibagh,” the spokesman said.

Says ‘underperformance of ministers, BJP pullout’ stalled growth

Discusses probable candidates

PDP president Mehbooba Mufti, who met the delegations of party leaders from twin border districts of Rajouri and Poonch here, also held discussions on the names of probable candidates from seven Assembly constituencies in these districts.

Jammu: Amid uncertainty over the conduct of the Assembly elections in Jammu and Kashmir, former Chief Minister and PDP chief Mehbooba Mufti on Wednesday asked the party cadre to gear up for the poll, claiming that the PDP would “emerge as the single largest political party” in the next elections.

The PDP chief, who met the delegations of party leaders from twin border districts of Rajouri and Poonch here, also held discussions on the names of probable candidates from seven Assembly constituencies in these districts.

Mehbooba, according to insiders, told party leaders that the PDP would emerge as the “single largest political party” in the next Assembly elections and could win more than 30 seats.

In a bid to boost sagging morale of the party cadre following desertions of senior leaders, Mehbooba said that the decision of some leaders to quit party would not make much impact as the “PDP has earned trust and faith of the people of J&K through its conviction and commitment”.

The insiders said Mehbooba told the leaders that the PDP, established by her father late Mufti Mohammad Sayeed, was a “mass based party” and the “individual decision” of some leaders to leave the PDP would hardly change the perception of the public.

“The PDP president was of the opinion that it was firstly the underperformance of some ministers in her Cabinet and later the BJP decision to withdraw support to coalition stalled the developmental process,” they said.

One of the party leaders from Rajouri, who declined to be named, said, “Mehboobaji discussed the present situation in Rajouri and Pooch districts and asked all leadersto gear up for the Assembly poll. All leaders, in one voice, assured her that they are united and the party cadre is fully intact”.

Srinagar: The state Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) on Wednesday hinted at post-poll alliance with Peoples conference (PC) led by former minister Sajjad Gani Lone in Jammu and Kashmir.

The BJP statement comes day after Sajjad Lone claimed to fight the elections in all 87 constituencies and said the party won’t go for any pre-poll alliance.

Talking to KNO, former deputy chief minister and senior BJP leader, Kavinder Gupta said that Lone has its party in Jammu and Kashmir and can also contests elections from all 87 assembly constituencies.

About pre-poll alliance, Gupta said, “He (Sajjad) has only said that his party won’t go for any pre-poll alliance but not about post-poll alliance.” Gupta added that the party has is gearing up for the elections in Jammu and Kashmir.

“BJP is always for the polls and for the upcoming polls, the party has started gearing up and has also convened several meetings so far,” he said. The six month’s Governor’s rule in Jammu and Kashmir was followed by the President’s rule. The state is currently under president’s rule and the elections would likely be held in the year.

Srinagar, December 26 : As the biting cold kept its grip over Valley, the local Meteorological (MeT) department on Wednesday predicted a snowfall in the first week of January.

Deputy Director MeT, Mukhtar Ahmad told KNO that there is possibility of snowfall on January 1 or 2. “The weather will remain dry as it is cloudy today as well. However we expect a downpour on Jan 1 or 2 that would break the spell, ” he said.

The world famous Dal Lake froze on Wednesday as the night temperature remained below freezing point. Srinagar, the summer capital of the continued to record below minus 6 temperature in the night while as Jammu also recorded the coldest night of the season.

86 forces personnel killed include 44 cops too, figures reveal

Srinagar: Operation All Out has not just given a major jolt to militants but also to forces also who have witnessed killing of 86 personnel, highest ever since 2007 of the 86 security men slain in the line of duty, 44 were policemen, 30 army soldiers and rest from the different paramilitary forces. The fatalities of the security forces in 2018 are the highest since 2007 when 182 security personnel lost their lives, official data available with the KNO revealed.

“Number of operations has increased. Operations are reviewed always and we try to become better with each operation. If number of operation is high at times it happens”, a police officer told KNO.

Data compiled by different security agencies reveal that in 2007, security forces lost 182 men and the following year in 2008 it lost 85 men. In 2009, 79 security forces men were killed which dropped to 69 in 2010 and 33 in 2011.

Around 15 security men were killed in 2012, the lowest in 10 years (2010 to 2018). In 2013, the year when Afzal Guru was hanged, security forces lost 52 soldiers and the following year in 2014 around 47 soldiers were killed. Thirty nine security men were killed in 2015, 82, 2016 and 80 in 2017.

Jammu and Kashmir police has suffered the maximum brunt of militancy in 2018. Police have lost 44 of their men in 2018 which is the highest since 2006 when 78 of its men were killed.

“We are the forefront of the anti terror operations in Jammu and Kashmir and that is why the militants are targeting us. Plus they are looking for soft targets like policemen on leave, unarmed policemen going home or buying groceries in markets”, said a police officer.

Last year in the corresponding period , there were 329 incidents of militant violence in the state in which 200 militants were killed while 74 forces’ personnel and 36 civilians also lost their lives.

Figures reveal that 270 militants were killed by security forces in 2010. The figure came down to 119 in 2011. Around 84 militants were killed in 2012 followed by 100 in 2013, 110 in 2014 and 113 in 2015. Despite unrest, security forces killed 165 ultras in 2016. Last year 209 militants were killed by the security forces. Figures reveal that around 150 youth have been recruited into militancy this year compared to 126 this year. South Kashmir has emerged as breeding ground for Jihadists to recruit gullible youth for militancy in 2018.(KNO)

Was Arrested By Police On 17th December during ‘kill us all’ Protest.

Srinagar:Chairman Jammu Kashmir Liberation Front (JKLF) Muhammad Yasin Malik and seven others including vice chairman Mushtaq Ajmal, Muhammad Hanif Dar, Imtiyaz Ahmad Dar, Imtiyaz Ahmad Ganie, Shakir Ahmad Ahangar, Fayaz Ahmad and Basharat Ahmad have been released from police custody after additional session judge Srinagar granted an interim bail to them. Chairman JKLF who was arrested along with others on 17th December 2018, while leading a peaceful “kill us all” protest against ongoing killing spree in Kashmir, were bailed out by a magistrate on 18th December but police using its old fraudulent tactics showed them re-arrested under many frivolous charges including the attempt to murder charge, presented them before a court which granted them a 7 days police remand. Today after the expiration of this remand, the case was heard by the additional session court Srinagar which ordered to release Yasin Malik and others from police custody on an interim bail till 17th January 2018. It is pertinent to mention during last three months, Yasin Malik has spent majority of days in police custody. He was arrested on 02nd of October 2018, and released on 18th October. He was again arrested on 24th October and released on 28thOctober. Police again arrested him on 19th November 2018, and he was then released on 12th December 2018. After only few days of freedom, Yasin Malik was again arrested by police on 17th December 2018 and kept at police station Kothibagh where after getting a bail from magistrate on 18th December he and others were shown re-arrested under frivolous charges. It is also significant to mention that police have charged JKLF chairman and others under case FIR No.33/2018 of P/S Maisuma, Srinagar under sections 307 (Attempt to Murder), 152,188,147,148,149,336,353,427 of RPC and the court of additional session judge granted an interim bail to him and others in all these charges after which they have been released from police custody now.